The Christmas Markets!

There is no better place than Europe to embrace the Christmas spirit. For Christmas junkies like myself, it is an absolute wonderland.

Every major city hosts a market in their downtown area that is a collaboration of huts and stands selling every kind of treat, hot drinks, gifts, native specialties and more. All the stands are lit with Christmas lights while surrounding the large city Christmas tree.

On weekend nights there is usually some sort of performance; Choir, band, etc. to provide Christmas carols that further adds to the ambiance.

We walked down almost everyday for some “gluhwein” (hot wine specialty) and trying out a new tasty treat. As cold as it is, I have to say that the festive atmosphere always made it worth the bone chilling temperatures.

In the first week of December, specialty market clusters were set up throughout the city.  Among them, I found the Finnish market to be my favorite. We made our way up there one afternoon during a heavy snowstorm. They had a variety of Finnish products and specialties, but we were drawn to the fresh whole salmons set upon wooden boards and being cooked right there on an open fire (I had pics, but lost my camera...again). Once it was fully cooked, they scraped off the flesh and stuffed it into fresh rye bread. So of course, we tried them and it may have been the best salmon I’ve ever eaten.  Then, we warmed up inside the large tipi set up in the center of the Finnish market with a bonfire burning inside.

We didn’t only experience the Linz Christmas Markets, but we made our way to Salzburg’s as well. Salzburg in December has to be closest thing to your childhood perception of the “North Pole.” It’s no wonder Salzburg is rated one of the top 5 best places to visit around Christmas time. We went down just for the day. In every open square of the city there are market stands set up. So we did the usual…grabbed a hot drink and walked along the stands to see all the different items sold, including thing’s like authentic sheep skin, Christmas ornaments, toys, jewelry and so on.

The thing I learned to love most about the Christmas markets is the way it so simply keeps the pure delight and spirit alive during the Christmas season.  A mere walk through any of these markets puts you in the spirit, with hardly any effort or cost. At home we often have Christmas get-togethers, which usually end up costing a lot of money on drinks, food, etc or a LOT of work on a person who hosts. Additionally, we get so wrapped up in gift giving (no pun intended), we don’t find time to enjoy uncomplicated and daily festivities for ourselves. If I could bring one tradition from Europe back to America, it would be a typical European Christmas market in each town (even over gelato..).

Our Tour Through Austria

After a couple days spent in Linz, it was on to our next adventure: our own 4 day tour through Austria..

We started in Salzburg. Tom and Lori spent the day on the Sound of Music Tour (as we did a month before with my parents). Afterwards we strolled through the small and charming streets of the Altstadt (“Old Town”). Of all that Salzburg has to offer, I think this might be my favorite…simply walking along while taking in the atmosphere. We went to dinner and enjoyed some authentic Austrian cuisine, which consists of seasonal pumpkin soup, Wiener schnitzel with sauerkraut, potatoes, bread, and not to be forgotten- beer.

The following morning we did a little souvenir shopping and we were off to our next destination- Hallstatt 

Hallstatt could be one of the most peaceful and scenic places on Earth. It’s no wonder the tiny village is growing popular among tourists. We didn’t do much besides walk through the still town and appreciate the views that day. At night we kicked back with pizza and cards at our bed and breakfast. The next day we had breakfast, walk/jogged through the mountains, and set out for our next stop, Zell Em See.

Zell Em See is a popular ski village among Austrians; and although we were there a little early for ski season, it was quite a place to see.  We spent day/night there exploring, until we embarked on the Krimmler Waterfalls.

Day 3- Krimmler Waterfalls

Lori suggested early on that the Krimmer Waterfalls were a must-see along our journey.  They are the highest waterfalls in Europe and among the top 5 in the world. Tom and Reid didn’t seem quite as excited about an estimated 4 hour hike up but I think it’s safe to say they’re happy they did.

The beginning seemed pretty easy…that’s how the mountain sucks you in. The higher you get, the better the views of the waterfalls and the town below, so we became more enthusiastic to continue on.  Also, the higher we got, the steeper the trail. There were times when the angle we were hiking made the trail appear almost level with my face…can you picture that!?

The views were spectacular and plenty worth the hike. I’ll let my pictures describe the rest..

Afterwards we took a beautiful, and somewhat life-threatening, drive through the windy narrow roads spiraling down mountains…which, (eventually) brought us to our final stop, Innsbruck.

Innsbruck is one of Austria’s largest cities and known for its winter sports. In fact, the city hosted the Winter Olympics twice (1964 and 1976). Innsbruck was a unique mix of both urban and rural setting. It was similar to Vienna in size and character. However it’s surround by stunning Austrian Alps that set it apart from any other major city I’ve seen here so far.

We had the opportunity to tour the Olympic ski jump. I was scared just looking down from that height, I don’t know how they manage to jump off it…and then proceed to land on 2 skis!

The journey came to end as we made our way to Munich, where Tom and Lori were flying out of to return back to Minnesooooota.  It was an invigorating week that gave us all the opportunity to see some of the most beautiful areas of Austria with our own eyes, and memories to keep for a lifetime. 

Slovenia

One of the best things about being here is providing the opportunity for our friends and family to see another part of the world…which, then includes, riding out the “vacation” wave with them! Just 4 weeks after my parents left, Reid’s parents arrived!

We drove down to Slovenia for the first weekend of their stay, primarily to cheer on the Black Wings…but, we saw some beautiful places along the way.

Bled, Slovenia is a hidden gem. I first learned about it after friends of ours got married there this summer. However, their pictures did little justice for what I saw with my own eyes (as do mine). This quaint village is situated on a small lake while surrounded by Slovenian Alps.

 

Besides it’s physical beauty, I was drawn to the way the town of Bled charismatically sticks to many of their oldest traditions. Our friends who were married there, hosted their ceremony at the castle that sits high upon a bluff overlooking the town. The castle is still run by a Lord and Lady, who performed Slovenian wedding customs. For example- The Lord uses his sword to slice off the champagne cork after they say their vows. 

A better example is then the bride and groom take a ferry across the lake to the church. The groom has to carry the bride up 99 stone steps before reaching the top and entering the church. Inside the church, the bride and groom ring the huge town bell 3 times and make a wish.  (So as you’d imagine….watching their wedding tape of all this was quite entertaining).

Well, we weren’t bride and groom, but Tom, Lori and I took the ferry to the church.

Interestingly, the ferries are another sacred tradition in Bled that has been passed down since the first families started the business. Now the men who row can only obtain the positions if they are heirlooms. Talk about a family business..

We asked the man working our ferry about the tradition and he confirmed. Then Lori asked him honestly, “So, did you want to do this; do you actually like it?” The man tilted his head as he considered the thought and in between strokes he grunted in his heavy accent, “It’s a job.”

We got to the island and I carried Lori up the 99 steps…kidding. But we did go up to the church, rang the bell, and made our wish (for 3 Euro per person…).

We spent the rest of our time hiking through Bled and eating an authentic Slovenian dinner, which included fish served with it’s eyes still staring at me! 

The next day we explored Ljubljana, which is Slovenia’s capital and largest city. More castles, more tours, more mountains, you get the gist. Don’t get me wrong- it was beautiful and we had a great time, but Bled was the highlight, for sure.  

(And I’m tired and want to go to bed). So, Gute Nacht!

Eagles Nest

My parents and I toured Eagles Nest for their last day here in Austria. It wasn't something I'd ever thought to see, but my Dad insisted..and I'm glad he did. This was by far one of the most fascinating and stunning places I have visited yet! 

It’s kind of strange that a place so breathtaking belonged to one of the worst dictators in world history, Adolf Hitler.

Eagles Nest was his weekend home located in the Bavarian Alps in Germany, and was given to Hitler by the Nazis as a gift for his 50^th birthday. It was also an approach to flaunt the Germans’ engineering and architectural proficiency at the time. The monument is called "Kehlsteinhaus"in German because it was originally intended to be a "Tea-house" for the Third Reich (the head of Nazi Germany).

We departed from Salzburg and took about an hour bus ride that crossed into Germany and brought us to the bottom of the mountain. There, another bus that took us to the top to an altitude of 6,017 ft. As we arrived at the summit, we found ourselves inside thick clouds. I wondered what kind of views we’d manage to catch if we couldn’t see three feet in front of us??

We walked through the long tunnel entrance, took the original brass elevator up to the top, and arrived inside the actual building.  My original disappointment by the cloudy weather instantly diminished when I looked out the window of Eva Braun’s room...

Nope not snow…clouds!

We walked outside and I could not get enough of this view; tips of mountaintops surfacing just above the clouds with blue skies all around. Not to sound cheesy, but it really did look like Heaven, well…how I picture it at least.

Funny thing- all the money and manual labor it took to build this, (not to mention the beauty it entails) and guess how much time Hitler actually spent here….9 days, and for no more than hour on each occasion.

He wasn’t afraid of war or genocide, but apparently heights gave him the willies.. hmm. He stayed in a small house at the bottom of the mountain (which is now a gift shop), while his mistress Eva Braun stayed at Eagles Nest during their weekend visits. 

Check out my video below for livelier views of Eagles Nest..

I know, I know, I've been slacking with the blog- but hey...those future in-laws kept us pretty busy this week! We've been to some new places and done fun things along the way, so be sure to check it out this week. I'll have you all caught up in the next few days!!

To Vienna, We Go

                 On Monday of my parent’s visit we set out for Vienna to spend the day. We got our coffee, our pastries, GPS (thankfully) and hit the road by 8am. After an hour and half drive, we arrived at our first stop, Schonbrunn Palace. 

Another brief history lesson- This estate dates back to the 13^th century belonging to the Klosterneuburg Monastery, which used the area primarily for wine growing. In 1569, during the Holy Roman Empire, Emperor Maximilian II purchased the land and mansion, previously called “Katterburg.” He stocked it with animals to create a recreational hunting ground. Later, in the 1640’s Elenore Gonzaga and her husband Ferdinand II occupied the mansion. After Ferdinand’s death, Elenore had the palace added to the Katterburg mansion, and renamed it as “Schonbrunn,” which means “beautiful spring.” Throughout the following centuries the palace was occupied by prominent historical figures and Hapsburg monarchs like: Emperor Leopold I, Empress Maria Theresa, Napolean, Emperor Franz Josef and wife Elisabeth, Karl I, and more. In 1918, at the end of the monarchy, the Austrian Republic took possession of Schonbrunn Palace.

Other interesting facts and uses for Schonbrunn Palace-

- Mozart played his first concert here (at only six years old) for Marie Therese in the Mirror Room.

- The Palace was used as a ballroom by the Russians, British and Austrian sovereigns during the Congress of Vienna in 1815, while dividing up the spoils of the Napoleonic Empire.

- During WWII a bomb fell through the ceiling in to the main gallery, but surprisingly did not explode.  (However, secondary bomb damage required restorations not completed till 1955).

- The Soviet army used Schonbrunn Palace as their HQ in 1945, before the Allied Command seized it from 1945-1948.

- The palace was used as meeting place for John F. Kennedy and Nikita Khrushchev in 1961

- In 1996, UNESCO added the palace and gardens to their World Heritage List, stating that the site is of, "outstanding universal value being an especially well preserved example of the Baroque princely residential ensemble, which constitutes an outstanding example of a Gesamtkunstwerk."

We spent the rest of the day exploring downtown Vienna. First we visited St. Stephen’s Cathedral. Actually, first we got authentic Wiener Schnitzel for lunch (can’t leave that out)…then, we went to the cathedral. St. Stephen’s Cathedral, known in German as the “Stephansdom,” is considered the heart of Vienna. The church dates back into the 1100’s. It was initially consecrated in 1147, although the construction was not fully completed until 1511. It was and still is Austria’s most significant religious building. If you’d like more information on the cathedral and/or it’s history click here. 

After a look inside, Reid and I thought it would be a good idea to climb to the top! We realized about 15 stairs up the narrow spiraled staircase that maybe it wasn’t such a good idea. It was a little disappointing at the top…a small crowded room with only four barred in windows that you had to battle for to check out the view, which I clearly did.... 

We spent the remainder of the afternoon walking, touring and treating ourselves to a traditional Viennese horse and buggy ride through the downtown area. 

As usual, we ended the evening on a sweet note…at Eissalon Tuchlauben, which boasts the best ice cream in all of Austria...music to my ears. (Researched and found by my friend Jess as soon as she found out we'd be living in Austria).

And I have to say…it lived up to it's reputation.

The Urfahraner Market

The Urfahraner Autumn Market is the oldest and largest festival in Austria…and only 4 blocks from our apartment! So luckily for me, I got a whole week to dip into all that the festival had to offer. There was something for everyone- rides, games, restaurants, beer tents, food stands of almost any culinary creation, live music, shops, and more. It was like Linz’s mini version of Oktoberfest. 

On opening night, Reid and I walked among the chaotic crowd, including- families, overly energetic children, hoodlum teenagers, couples, elderly and everyone in between. We got some beer and watched the fireworks premier. It was a great show…but I have to say, it didn’t nearly match up to the 4^th of July fireworks we have back home;)

I went back the next day with my friend Brandi, for some lunch, while sitting outside relishing in one of my favorite hobbies…people watching. If I thought the dirndls and lederhosen threw us back in time, the Urfahraner market at least brought up into the 80’s. I have never seen so many mullets, mohawks, leather jackets, and downright outrageous outfits so customarily worn in my whole life, and in broad daylight nonetheless.  I expected the lederhosen…but this??

Later that week a group of us met in one of the tents to enjoy the band and lively atmosphere.  I stayed in the tent while Reid was lured into those impossible carnival games. 

He did manage to come back with a gigantic panda bear and about 8 fake watches, so I guess that can be considered triumphant..

Something has to be said about the thrill rides here. You'd think mild carnival rides, like bumper cars, carousels, etc. Well apparently not at the Urfahraner, where "thrill" is no exaggeration. They spent over a month setting up these rides. I’d watch it slowly coming together each morning as I run passed along the Danube. A lot of hard work lies behind this event. Still, I’m not so sure I’d trust some of the rides that throw human bodies around like Nerf balls. 

The last night of the festival, (and the first night of my parent's visit) we took one last stab at the Urfahraner Market. We were feeling daring so we decided take our chances….on the Ferris wheel. Hey, it goes pretty fast!!





Overall the market presented another entertaining Austrian experience. And with it only open for 8 days, it’s no surprise that the festival draws over 600,000 guests each year!