To Vienna, We Go

                 On Monday of my parent’s visit we set out for Vienna to spend the day. We got our coffee, our pastries, GPS (thankfully) and hit the road by 8am. After an hour and half drive, we arrived at our first stop, Schonbrunn Palace. 

Another brief history lesson- This estate dates back to the 13^th century belonging to the Klosterneuburg Monastery, which used the area primarily for wine growing. In 1569, during the Holy Roman Empire, Emperor Maximilian II purchased the land and mansion, previously called “Katterburg.” He stocked it with animals to create a recreational hunting ground. Later, in the 1640’s Elenore Gonzaga and her husband Ferdinand II occupied the mansion. After Ferdinand’s death, Elenore had the palace added to the Katterburg mansion, and renamed it as “Schonbrunn,” which means “beautiful spring.” Throughout the following centuries the palace was occupied by prominent historical figures and Hapsburg monarchs like: Emperor Leopold I, Empress Maria Theresa, Napolean, Emperor Franz Josef and wife Elisabeth, Karl I, and more. In 1918, at the end of the monarchy, the Austrian Republic took possession of Schonbrunn Palace.

Other interesting facts and uses for Schonbrunn Palace-

- Mozart played his first concert here (at only six years old) for Marie Therese in the Mirror Room.

- The Palace was used as a ballroom by the Russians, British and Austrian sovereigns during the Congress of Vienna in 1815, while dividing up the spoils of the Napoleonic Empire.

- During WWII a bomb fell through the ceiling in to the main gallery, but surprisingly did not explode.  (However, secondary bomb damage required restorations not completed till 1955).

- The Soviet army used Schonbrunn Palace as their HQ in 1945, before the Allied Command seized it from 1945-1948.

- The palace was used as meeting place for John F. Kennedy and Nikita Khrushchev in 1961

- In 1996, UNESCO added the palace and gardens to their World Heritage List, stating that the site is of, "outstanding universal value being an especially well preserved example of the Baroque princely residential ensemble, which constitutes an outstanding example of a Gesamtkunstwerk."

We spent the rest of the day exploring downtown Vienna. First we visited St. Stephen’s Cathedral. Actually, first we got authentic Wiener Schnitzel for lunch (can’t leave that out)…then, we went to the cathedral. St. Stephen’s Cathedral, known in German as the “Stephansdom,” is considered the heart of Vienna. The church dates back into the 1100’s. It was initially consecrated in 1147, although the construction was not fully completed until 1511. It was and still is Austria’s most significant religious building. If you’d like more information on the cathedral and/or it’s history click here. 

After a look inside, Reid and I thought it would be a good idea to climb to the top! We realized about 15 stairs up the narrow spiraled staircase that maybe it wasn’t such a good idea. It was a little disappointing at the top…a small crowded room with only four barred in windows that you had to battle for to check out the view, which I clearly did.... 

We spent the remainder of the afternoon walking, touring and treating ourselves to a traditional Viennese horse and buggy ride through the downtown area. 

As usual, we ended the evening on a sweet note…at Eissalon Tuchlauben, which boasts the best ice cream in all of Austria...music to my ears. (Researched and found by my friend Jess as soon as she found out we'd be living in Austria).

And I have to say…it lived up to it's reputation.

The Urfahraner Market

The Urfahraner Autumn Market is the oldest and largest festival in Austria…and only 4 blocks from our apartment! So luckily for me, I got a whole week to dip into all that the festival had to offer. There was something for everyone- rides, games, restaurants, beer tents, food stands of almost any culinary creation, live music, shops, and more. It was like Linz’s mini version of Oktoberfest. 

On opening night, Reid and I walked among the chaotic crowd, including- families, overly energetic children, hoodlum teenagers, couples, elderly and everyone in between. We got some beer and watched the fireworks premier. It was a great show…but I have to say, it didn’t nearly match up to the 4^th of July fireworks we have back home;)

I went back the next day with my friend Brandi, for some lunch, while sitting outside relishing in one of my favorite hobbies…people watching. If I thought the dirndls and lederhosen threw us back in time, the Urfahraner market at least brought up into the 80’s. I have never seen so many mullets, mohawks, leather jackets, and downright outrageous outfits so customarily worn in my whole life, and in broad daylight nonetheless.  I expected the lederhosen…but this??

Later that week a group of us met in one of the tents to enjoy the band and lively atmosphere.  I stayed in the tent while Reid was lured into those impossible carnival games. 

He did manage to come back with a gigantic panda bear and about 8 fake watches, so I guess that can be considered triumphant..

Something has to be said about the thrill rides here. You'd think mild carnival rides, like bumper cars, carousels, etc. Well apparently not at the Urfahraner, where "thrill" is no exaggeration. They spent over a month setting up these rides. I’d watch it slowly coming together each morning as I run passed along the Danube. A lot of hard work lies behind this event. Still, I’m not so sure I’d trust some of the rides that throw human bodies around like Nerf balls. 

The last night of the festival, (and the first night of my parent's visit) we took one last stab at the Urfahraner Market. We were feeling daring so we decided take our chances….on the Ferris wheel. Hey, it goes pretty fast!!





Overall the market presented another entertaining Austrian experience. And with it only open for 8 days, it’s no surprise that the festival draws over 600,000 guests each year! 

October 6th 2010

Well, I had originally planned to write about another adventure out of Linz…little did I know this “day trip” would mark the beginning of a much greater journey. 

Now that I’ve told the story about 50 times, which is probably more enjoyable for me than anyone else, I might as well put it in writing...so let me start at the beginning.

We were on the road by 2:30 that afternoon heading for a town called St. Wolfgang, Austria. The overcast sky cleared up just in time for our panoramic drive through the mountains.  The views were so mesmerizing I hardly realized we had been driving for over 2 hours.  

We arrived around 5pm with the sun just beginning to set. It was a beautiful spot. I could see, then, why people traveled there just for the view. We parked and walk along the river until entering the quaint village of St. Wolfgang. Like many European towns, St. Wolfgang had narrow cobblestone roads, outdoor cafes, and tiny shops throughout. But the gentle tranquility of the mountains reflected on the town and set St. Wolfgang apart from all the others. As we walked through, I was amazed at how quiet and truly serene the streets were.  We did as we always do; walked around scoping out the different stores and restaurants while I continue taking too many pictures along the way.

Looking back on it, Reid was a little more direct in our typical aimless wandering than usual. He said “I want to take a walk out here” and headed towards the dock. We strolled to the end and simply appreciated the view. We were standing over Wolfgang Lake in the valley of enormous mountains, at sunset. Could we ask for a better setting?? (No, in case you didn’t pick up on the rhetoric).

So of course, it wasn’t long before my camera came out and started snapping pictures left and right. Reid suggested we take a pictures of us; I remember thinking, “Yah..why didn’t I think of that?” So we asked the nearest lady if she wouldn’t mind.  We took one…I’d like to call it “the before.”

We decided to take one more, and as I set the camera and went to give it back to her, I heard Reid say from behind me “Ok, seriously, don’t fall in” (which, he had joked about earlier). I thought the joke was getting a little tired…until…

I turned around to find Reid down on one knee. I’d elaborate on what I was thinking, but I’m pretty sure the shock wiped it from my memory.  I was overwhelmed with excitement and happiness (yes, and tears). I don’t know how long I stood there trying to fathom what was occurring. Reid helped me out- I think I tried hugging him (and probably taking the ring) when he said, “well you have to say Yes first” (apparently that one’s not a rhetorical question). YES, we were officially engaged.

(Luckily, the woman with my camera assumed we'd like the pictures) 

Afterwards we walked back into the square and went to the White Horse Inn restaurant, which is known as St. Wolfgang’s “legendary romantic hotel and restaurant”.  (here’s the link- http://www.weissesroessl.at/en-index.htm). The lounge was empty when we walked in. The waiter and bartender greeted us, and before they could ask what we’d like, I burst “WE”RE ENGAGED!” I had to get it out. I don’t think they understood at first, so I showed the ring and they said, “Ohhhh, we bring you champagne!”  We sipped champagne while Reid explained some of the background work he pulled this summer. I have to say, it was impressive.  I’m engaged to a pretty smooth guy.  (And I’m impressed with all of you who KNEW, and kept it quiet…Emily).

We then indulged ourselves in an elegant 6-course dinner there (no better time). We were seated at a nice table in the window near the live piano player. We witnessed quite a remarkable 5-minute wine presentation by our waiter after ordering a bottle of their Pinto Noir. Can you picture all this?? I fully understand why this establishment is reputable for its romantic ambiance.

Three hours later, after our last course of hazelnut soufflé and layered cake, we walked to the car. Finding our way out of St. Wolfgang was surprisingly easier than finding our way in. The first thing I did when we got in the car…call Mom. I don’t know who was more surprised, me…or my Mom. Her initial reaction was something like, “ha…What!?” (An excited and happy “what”). My Dad’s reaction was rather different seeing as he was expecting it. He said to Reid, ”I was getting nervous you hadn’t yet.” I then called my brothers (several times, since they are both impossible to get a hold of); they were also surprised and happy for us.

Reid’s family knew since the summer as well. (Again, impressive they didn’t spill- especially when Lori and Nicole were visiting NH this summer). They were all happy, excited and so welcoming; a family I’m fortunate to join. 

The rest of the night was spent calling family and friends to share the news. It was fun to retell and listen to each person’s initial excitement, over and over again.

The next morning I woke up, instantly looked at my ring and thought, “yup, it really happened.” Hearing all the lingo...”engaged,” “fiancé,” “wedding” is as familiar to me as my German (which is, “nicht gut”) so I know it will take a few weeks for the surprise to surpass and let it all blissfully sink in. 

My parents fly in this week. Reid planned accordingly (again- smooth) so that we could celebrate and enjoy the week with them. His parents visit in 3 weeks and the fun will continue!

We are so happy. Everyone’s enthusiasm, happiness, and support this week has made it all the better to share. We’re looking forward to a bright future, and of course, a very fun wedding!

Oh and I can’t leave out this detail- the ring is absolutely BEAUTIFUL!!!!!!!

Austrian..Fashion?

I have to quickly note a realization here in regards to the dirndls, lederhosen, and other traditional Austrian garb commonly seen in my photos. Contrary to what Americans might find in Halloween catalogs, the Austrians aren’t playing dress up or showing off costumes. This is a custom in both their historic AND modern culture.

When I went to Oktoberfest two years ago, I ignorantly thought the attire was more of a historic mockery, and rather silly looking too. After living in Linz for a month now, I’ve observed and realized that the outfits are more honorable than anything else. Most Austrians own at least one dirndl or pair of lederhosen to wear to special occasions. However, it is not uncommon to find people walking down the street dressed in such clothing.

My friend Vicky (from Austria) informed me that many Austrian weddings and formal events expect guests to dress in authentic clothing. Interestingly enough, dirndl and lederhosen aren’t as mainstream in Germany as they are in Austria. The Germans typically wear them at Oktoberfest and other particular events to demonstrate tradition and national pride; whereas some Austrians sport them as modern fashion.

After this bit of enlightenment, I have to say, I was more comfortable dressed in a dirndl at Oktoberfest than a hoodie (like my first time). ”When in Rome," right?

So to anyone else who initially thought of the Austrian attire as quaint and outdated…now we both know better.

Oktoberfest, we meet again!

I never thought I'd have the chance to go to Oktoberfest again. I went two years ago and considered it one of the best weekends of my life (or perhaps, the beer swayed my recollection into thinking so).  It’s one of those experiences you believe to be “once in a lifetime." So you could imagine my excitement when the opportunity reoccurred this year. We planned a while back (when Reid signed his contract) that we would attend Oktoberfest, especially with this year being the 200^th anniversary celebration.  And so, we did.

We were out the door by 6:00am, buying our tickets and McDonalds breakfast at the train station by 6:45am, sprinting to the train at 6:50am, and luckily on our way by 6:52am!

Two and a half hours later we arrived in Munich dressed in our lederhosen and dirndls. We were ready to go! 

By 10:00am we were in a tent (Augustiner), at a table, and had ordered our first round of “groses biers.” I'd like to think of it as a healthy German breakfast.

As time passed, the tent grew busy with a diverse crowd all coming together for the celebration. Every tent develops a communal energy and suddenly it’s as if we’ve been friends with the people surrounding us all our lives. Okay, I’ll admit…the beer drinking has something to do with the over-friendly Germans, but it’s more than that. People walk into Oktoberfest with happy, energetic, and optimistic attitudes; which I believe to be the true foundation behind the cheerful atmosphere. The beer just enhances it…obviously.

Outside the tent was a different world.  The streets were overwhelmed with crowds, carnival rides, games, gift stands, and food vendors galore. It’s a good thing we already had our tickets booked home for that afternoon, otherwise we would have gotten caught up in it all night long!

We got to the train station just in time to see our train leave without us. Perfect. We waited an hour or so and jumped on the next train back to Linz. The combination of the day's festivities and our animated bunch made the train ride back far more amusing than the ride there.

By 8:30pm we arrived back in Linz. We went, we saw, we drank, and we survived another Oktoberfest.